| It may not look it through the window but on this clear morning of December 31, it's -39C (-38.2F) and feels like a blistering -51C (-59.8F) in the wind. In this kind of weather, it is nice to be able to keep all the warm air trapped inside the house and then have the ventilation controlled either by HRV or by window if necessary. The advantages are many and include energy savings, durability and controlled clean air supply. |
So how did I put together my "airtight" ceiling?
Step 1, ledgers, hangers and ceiling joists:
After determining the desired ceiling height, I measured and marked the exterior wall for the 2x4 ledger that runs around the entire perimeter. After nailing up the ledger, I "tacked" the hangers to the bottom chord of each truss using a single 3" deck screw. The hangers were cut to length from 2x3 stock so that with the top of the hanger flush with the top of the truss bottom chord, the bottom of the hanger was at the same height as the bottom of the ledger. The hangers were installed at 48" o.c. along each truss with each truss being 24" o.c. (ie, hangers 48" o.c. one way and 24" o.c. the other way). Once the hangers were all tacked in place, 2x4 ceiling joists were fastened to each in the same plane as the ledger.
Sheathing the ceiling with plywood was straight forward. Again, I first used screws to "tack" each sheet into position, then followed up with nails once all the sheets were installed.
| Closing in the ceiling with plywood really changed the feel of the space inside the house (not surprisingly) - it is really starting to feel like a house we can live in now! |
While I plan to blow a thick blanket of cellulose into the ceiling for insulation, I'm not ready to do that yet. In the meantime, as I installed each new row of plywood sheathing, I took the time to install a single layer of Roxul batts (R14) as I went so that the ceiling would at least have some insulation in it until the cellulose gets blown in.
Last but certainly not least, all seams (including the junction between the wall sheathing and the ceiling sheathing) were taped with 3M 8067.
| Almost done... that's one heck of an air barrier boy. |
The ceiling isn't entirely finished yet - I left out one plywood panel until I figure out exactly where the wood stove chimney will go, but that will take a little while yet. In the meantime, with the ceiling closed in the way it is (taped with one layer of R14 batts installed) I have been able to keep some heat in the house without much trouble despite the cold winter we've been having. In fact, a small 900 watt heater has been keeping the basement between about 1-2 degrees C day in, day out, for the last couple of weeks while outside the temperature has been averaging somewhere near -17C.
| Until I get around to sorting out the chimney, these 4" XPS boards are serving to plug the hole. Very, very nice to be working out of the cold for a change. |
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ReplyDeleteHi Bill,
DeleteThanks for sharing.
I've read the entire blog over the past few days and I'm really enjoying it! I found it on the arctic sea ice forum that a friend linked me to WRT Passivhaus. I'm hoping you'll post again soon :) Your home is beautiful.
ReplyDeleteHi Katy, thanks for commenting and I'm glad you enjoyed yourself.
DeleteI've been busy working away on our house this summer and have gotten a fair bit done and taken plenty of photos...
I intend to get back into a somewhat regular posting schedule this fall sometime so please check back if you're interested.
Cheers.
Hello Lucas;
ReplyDeleteI'm in the midst of planning my home build and was glad to stumble across your blog. I too live in Northern Ontario, the sault area, and am planning a similar style home. I was impressed with Thorsten Chlupp's build. His approach makes a lot of sense but I thought I'd do Roxul instead of dense pack and so was glad to see that you had done it! I had a few questions if that's okay.
i) What influenced your decision to place the sheathing inside the primary stud wall instead of too exterior of primary stud wall? Doesn't going exterior save having to build interior service cavity and also simplify air sealing and wall building?
ii) Why not do two layers of r22 roxul at 5.5" instead of 3 at 3.5"? Obviously you'd have to modify the truss design a little, but wouldn't it reduce installation time considerably.
Your house looks incredibly well done and meticulously detailed. Most impressive. Thanks for all the work with putting the blog up, especially the details section.
Hi Nicholas,
DeleteThanks for the kind words, and glad to hear you found my blog useful.
i) As I'm sure you realize, the design of a stick-built home with walls this thick is a process. As I moved through that process I made decisions about what types of assemblies seemed more "buildable" to me, considering that I would basically be building the house solo. This particular design, with its interior side sheathing and service cavity, is somewhat more material and labour intensive (strapping for the cavity) but it was very "buildable". Also, given the time a solo build can take (just finishing up now, almost 5 years on), there are material exposure [to weather and UV] concerns, particularly with expensive air-sealing tapes. This particular design allowed me to do 90% of my air-sealing after the roof was up, in a protected environment. Hitting all the right places with air-sealing tape was not difficult with this design (provided, as always, one remembers where those places are ;-)
All this being said, I also admire Thorsten's ARCTIC profile and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to someone.
ii) The three layer system was again part of the design process. While the difference in R-value between the two configurations you propose is zero, having two layers would result in something more like a "staggered stud" wall using 2x6 (assuming a continuous thermal break). Without actually having crunched the numbers, I would guess that using all 2x6 might push the material cost up over the cost for the same R in a wall built from 2x4. Maybe not...
In any case, to switch to a staggered 2x6 wall in my case would have forced a redesign of bottom/top plate and rim board details.
Anyway, I hope that answers your questions and is of some help.
Cheers,
Lucas
Thanks very much for your answer. I'd been trying to figure out about the sheathing being inside for a while. It makes perfect sense, Getting weathertight and then being able to pick away at the details is a big positive.
DeleteAs I head into my planning and build I wonder if I could run some ideas by you? Having many eyes on the plans helps catch something stupid or troublesome. Mostly I'm trying to get the framing and air sealing details sorted. Anyways, if its not too much trouble could you please email me at stillcroftbakehouse at gmail.com
Take Care;
Nicholas
thank you for this good information
ReplyDelete